80-Inch Band Saw Blade for Wood: Dimensions, Uses, and Selection Rules

You have a 12-inch band saw and you need to order blades for woodworking. The saw takes 80-inch blades. You see blades ranging from 1/8 inch to 3/4 inch wide, with TPI from 3 to 14, in carbon steel and bi-metal. You want to understand which blade to use for which task so you can order the right ones and stop wasting money on blades that do not fit your work.

The 80-inch blade is the standard length for 12-inch woodworking band saws. It fits the Craftsman 113 series, Delta 28-160, Jet JWBS-12, Grizzly G0555, and Rikon 10-312, among others. The wide availability means you have many options, but you need to match the blade to the task.

Blade Width Selection for Wood

The width of the blade determines the minimum cutting radius and how well it tracks on straight cuts. For woodworking, width is the most important specification after TPI.

1/8 inch: Tight curves and scroll work. Minimum radius about 2 inches. The narrow blade wanders on straight cuts longer than 6 inches. Use only for curved work where no straight sections are needed.

1/4 inch: General curve cutting. Minimum radius about 4 inches. Handles straight cuts in stock up to 2 inches thick. A good second blade to keep on hand for mixed curve and straight work.

3/8 inch: The best all-around width for a 12-inch saw. Tracks straight for ripping and crosscutting. Still handles curves with a 5 inch radius or larger. If you only own one 80-inch blade, make it 3/8 inch.

1/2 inch: Straight ripping and resawing. Handles the full 6-inch resaw capacity of most 12-inch saws. Will not cut curves tighter than about 12 inch radius. Use when cut quality on straight cuts matters most.

3/4 inch: Maximum width for most 12-inch saws. Resawing only. Some saws cannot accommodate 3/4 inch blades without modifying the guide post. Check your saw’s manual before ordering.

TPI Selection for Wood

3 TPI (hook tooth): Resawing thick stock (3+ inches). Large gullets clear chips fast. The aggressive hook angle pulls the blade through the wood. Fast but leaves a slightly rough surface. The standard for resawing.

4 TPI (skip tooth): General woodworking. The default for most 1/4 and 3/8 inch blades. Handles 3/4 to 2 inch stock. Good balance of speed and finish. The best starting point for a new 12-inch saw owner.

6 TPI: Smoother cuts on 1/2 to 1 inch stock. Slower than 4 TPI but better surface finish. Good for furniture parts where sanding time matters.

10 TPI: Thin stock (1/4 inch and under) and fine curves. Clean cut but will burn in thick material because the small gullets cannot clear chips fast enough. Use for thin stock and scroll work.

14 TPI: Very thin stock and delicate scroll work. Smoothest edge but slow and prone to burning in anything over 1/4 inch thick.

Tooth Profile for Wood

Hook tooth (positive rake, about 10 degrees): The tooth leans forward. Cuts aggressively. Best for thick stock and resawing. Can grab in soft woods if feed is too fast. The standard for resawing blades.

Skip tooth (0 degree rake): The tooth is straight up. Large gullet for chip clearance. The most common profile for general woodworking. Good in soft or gummy woods like pine and cedar where chip clearance is important.

Regular tooth (slight negative rake): Cuts slower, produces the smoothest finish. Best for thin stock and fine work where surface quality matters more than speed.

Blade Material for Wood

Carbon steel: The standard for woodworking. Holds an edge for 2 to 4 hours of cutting in softwoods, 1 to 2 hours in hardwoods. Good for occasional use. Cost: 8 to 15 dollars.

Bi-metal: M42 high-speed steel edge on flexible backing. Lasts 3 to 5 times longer than carbon steel. Worth the extra cost if you cut hardwood regularly or do production work. Cost: 15 to 35 dollars.

Carbide-tipped: Longest-lasting but overkill for most 12-inch saws. The motor on a 12-inch saw typically does not have the power to take advantage of carbide’s higher cutting speed. Cost: 60 to 150 dollars. Only consider for production resawing.

For most 12-inch saw owners, carbon steel is the right choice for general work and bi-metal is the right choice for resawing.

Recommended Blades by Task

General woodworking: 3/8 inch, 4 TPI skip tooth, carbon steel. Handles 80 percent of tasks. Cost: about 10 dollars.

Resawing: 1/2 inch, 3 TPI hook tooth, bi-metal. Handles 6-inch hardwood boards. The bi-metal edge survives the heat of deep cuts. Cost: about 25 dollars.

Curve cutting: 1/4 inch, 6 TPI skip tooth, carbon steel. Narrow enough for moderate curves, fine enough for a clean finish. Cost: about 10 dollars.

Fine work: 1/8 inch, 14 TPI, carbon steel. Tight curves and scroll work. Cost: about 8 dollars.

Hardwood ripping: 1/2 inch, 4 TPI skip tooth, bi-metal. The bi-metal edge handles the abrasive nature of hardwood. Cost: about 20 dollars.

Blade Tension for 80-Inch Blades

Proper tension is critical for 80-inch blades. Too little tension causes the blade to flutter and wander. Too much tension can break the blade or damage the saw.

1/8 to 1/4 inch blades: About 10,000 to 12,000 PSI. On most 12-inch saws, this is when the tension knob is snug.

3/8 to 1/2 inch blades: About 15,000 PSI. On most 12-inch saws, this is when the tension knob is snug plus a quarter turn.

3/4 inch blades: About 18,000 to 20,000 PSI. Some 12-inch saws cannot generate this much tension. If the blade flutters and you cannot add more tension, the saw’s tension spring may be too weak for 3/4 inch blades.

Blade Break-In

New bi-metal blades need a break-in period. Run the first 10 to 20 cuts at half feed pressure. This lets the tooth tips wear evenly and prevents chipping. Skipping break-in can reduce blade life by 30 to 50 percent.

Carbon steel blades do not need as much break-in because the edge is less brittle, but a few light cuts still help.

Common Issues

Blade burning the wood: The TPI is too fine for the stock thickness, or the feed rate is too slow. Switch to a coarser blade or feed faster.

Blade wandering on straight cuts: The blade is dull, the guides are misadjusted, or the fence is not aligned for drift. Check each in order.

Blade coming off the wheels: The tires are worn, the tracking is misadjusted, or the blade tension is too low. Replace tires and check tracking.

Rough cut surface: The TPI is too coarse for the stock thickness, or the blade is dull. Switch to a finer TPI or replace the blade.

Blade breaking prematurely: The blade guides are too tight, the tension is too high, or the tires are worn causing blade fatigue. Check each in order.

FAQ

What is the best 80-inch blade for general woodworking?

A 3/8 inch wide, 4 TPI skip tooth blade in carbon steel. This handles 80 percent of woodworking tasks and costs about 10 dollars.

What blade should I use for resawing on a 12-inch saw?

A 1/2 inch wide, 3 TPI hook tooth bi-metal blade. The bi-metal edge survives the heat of deep cuts in hardwood.

Can I cut metal with an 80-inch wood blade?

No. Wood blades run at about 3000 SFPM, which is too fast for metal cutting. You need a saw with speed reduction and a bi-metal blade for metal.

How long do 80-inch carbon steel blades last?

In softwoods, 2 to 4 hours of cutting. In hardwoods, 1 to 2 hours. Bi-metal blades last 3 to 5 times longer.

Why does my 80-inch blade keep burning the wood?

The TPI is too fine for the stock thickness, or the feed rate is too slow. The blade rubs instead of cutting, generating heat. Switch to a coarser blade or feed faster.

What thickness should my 80-inch blade be?

Most 12-inch saws are designed for 0.025 inch thick blades. Some 80-inch blades are 0.035 inches thick and may not tension properly on all saws. Check your saw’s manual.

References

• Olson Saw. “80-Inch Woodworking Blade Guide.” Olson Saw Company.
• Timber Wolf Blades. “80-Inch Blade Specifications for Wood.” Suffolk Machinery Corporation.
• Carter Products. “Blade Tension Guide for 12-Inch Saws.” Carter Products.
• LENOX Tools. “Woodworking Band Saw Blade Classifications.” LENOX Classic Pro.
• Fine Woodworking. “Choosing Band Saw Blades.” Taunton Press.